Reflections on traveling abroad, alone.

Now that I'm back in America, I have some final reflections from my 2 weeks away.

What I'll miss about the uk:
-The smell of toast in the morning
-Cool Humidity
-Birds of all types chirping in the morning
-Lights that turn yellow before they turn green
-Standing at bars  (rather than barstools)
-Stairs
-British accents
- more lax about things like personal hygiene
- poached eggs

Things I could take or leave:
- shops closing down after 6 (thought I guess Albuquerque does that to sine extent)
-posh culture
-dapper men
-8 million people
- transport via tube

What I'm looking forward to upon return:
- Sun
- vast open spaces
- my park
- my sweet Sid
- my full music collection (with the exception of wax tailor I only allowed myself to listen to British artists during my travels. Which turned out to be not so bad)

Thoughts on packing an urban backpack:
While I greatly enjoyed the pride I felt at being able to carry everything I needed for two weeks x4, it caused some hassles... and there are a few things I would change.
I was told twice that I was "over dressed" which I assume was in reference to my backpack. One guy told me I looked like I was ready for the arctic (nope) and another asked if I was sleeping on a bench that night. To which I replied that I didn't know yet (though I did).
At the end of my trip, my backpack weighed about 27lbs, but my shoulder bag was probably about 10. I tried to mostly acquire light clothing, though I did pick up one pretty dense rock and 3 books. I didn't even buy gifts for all the people I thought of.... due to the diminishing space. But there are some things I would do differently.
1) enough socks and underwear for the whole trip (I ended up buying both, but more for the opportunity than out of need, which there also was)
2) two jackets and two pairs of shoes proved helpful though not necessary. I could have done with less shirts. Because I bought 4 shirts and two pants my first day I about doubled my wardrobe. I would have rather that space for gifts our souvineers.
3) fixed my buckle before I left. I meant to replace the buckle oh my backpack. I ended up just taking it off and tying it, which took a bit more time but had the desired effect of causing the backpack to rest well on my hips so I could hardly feel the 30lbs shadowing me.
4) I was pleased that I happened to but a bigger shoulder bag, as it held more of the crap I acquired, for better or worse. I was also glad that I decided against getting rid of my computer. Even though it's a mini, it's at least 3lbs that I carried around all of England but  only used twice. I had considered wiping the memory and recycling it at the beginning of my trip, but when my phone started flaking out I was glad I had it as back up.

Final thoughts:
I feel that I achieved my goals of finding historical context, self reflecting, and challenging myself to do new things. I made memories and came to understandings that will affect the rest of life. However, I spent more money than I felt cause to... and I missed my beautiful community. I am looking forward to putting my energies into my community now that I have fulfilled my need for far off adventures. I will always have a sense of wanderlust that is kept in balance by my homing nature. I am fortunate to have a profession where I can achieve both, and I am looking forward to giving my all to that.

Last day in the U.K.

I took a little break from blogging for my birthday, and because by the time I arrived to my humble bnb for the night, I was to disenchanted to type anything unbiased.

I woke up on my birthday on a 7th floor flat in the heart of London. I snoozed for an hour then went in a run like the Londoners do- weaving in and out of tourists along busy Oxford street, crossing under the marble arch into Hyde park and back. Running through all those changing obstacles was way more intense than running on trail, although the air quality and hard pavement make it less ideal.
I spent the rest of the morning with my friend Jodi, walking around town, shopping at Primark and Snog and sine strange little sex shops in SoHo. It was nice to feel a little more like a local, but maybe I let it go to my head. I left Jodi for my much anticipated room, and adorable- looking room on the south bank of the Thames, and after just one turn around, I made it.
Immediately I was disappointed. Not only did I get asked to buy a high schooler cigarettes, the room want in great condition and the sheets weren't clean.  This little sanctuary  where I was going to reflect on my last year didn't have the vibe I was hoping for, and ironically was the least appealing of all the airbnbs I stayed in.
So, as to not dwell, but enjoy the daylight remaining, I head out toward the river accompanied by Damien Rice, and watched the sun fade and the building lights come on. 

After a peaceful little dinner in a building where they used to forge iron, I made easy to the Globe for one of the best theatrical experiences of my life. 

Turns out The Winters Tale, for which I bought the last available ticket, which was two seats from the corner of the small stage, was actually in the Sam Whitiker theatre, a smaller indoor style theatre styled for Shakespeare's later plays. That means that there were only 100 or so audience members, and at times I could have reached out ans touched the actors.
The inside of the theatre had a 17th venture feel, complete with astrology paintings on the ceiling. The seats were but benches, but since I was on the front row, I could lean into the railing. The actually performance was remarkable, stylized, intimate and entertaining. I loved every moment of it, and it was worth every pence. From actors belting the fourth wall by handing off items, drinking wine our kissing the audience to several interesting dance and singing scenes, I felt fully enraptured in the play.
Sadly, it came to an end, and I decided to walk home feeling only a bit nervous about walking home alone at night. I returned to my unappealing room and shut out the world. 

This morning I packed up my bags, though not for the last time. I still have two days of journeying and much time and space to conquer. With so much ahead of me, I didn't want to do anything to complicated.... but I DID go to the museum of natural history, the science museum and the Victoria and Albert museum. 

But not before having my third avocado and toast.  :) 

I mostly explored the science museum because it cost £8 to do my bags at the natural history museum! I walked through the halls though, and to the Darwin Centre, where I enjoyed watching scientists work on a whale skeleton that had been on display for 81 years, as well as rows and rows of old collections in jars. (Unfortunately I mostly used my camera to capture these).

At the science museum, I enjoyed the clock and watch collection, and the basement collection of appliances from people's homes.

 Not only was I overwhelmed by the 5 floors of stuff and information..... there must have been at least a thousand school children screaming and running through any of the exhibits. Overhearing the delight of two girls behind me in the space room, made me think about how I once marveled museums but now am overwhelmed by them. As a child, I think museums are a great way to introduce you to single items and concepts, and start connecting them. Once you maintain your own web of understanding, they are of less use, save the areas of your interest. 

I only walked through the Victoria and Albert museum on my way to the train, but now I can say I've been there. I arrived ay the airport a few hours before my flight but I didn't want any complications.
Next stop, NYC... A much needed catch up date with my dear friend Stephanie. Then to Denver for another one with my cousin Brittney before arriving in the caring hands of my lover, and finally going home.

Eyes and ears in England

My what my eyes have seen today and my ears did hear.
I saw:
*a group of dancers singing hari Krishna in the street, accompanied by a man decorated in los of yellow and gold fabric
*A GIANT disco ball

*dozens of bow and arrows, spears, guns, locks, purses, beads, drums, jewelry, capes and ancient toiletries... organized by item in the Pitts River museum in Oxford

*fossils and animals relics of all types in the most beautiful museum I've ever been in

Just upon entry it was love. 

*a piece of road paved in ox and sheep knuckle bones

And I've heard:

*A live organist playing Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor at Oxford's town hall

*3 hours of British poets and comedians performing live at the poetry cafe near Drury lane (where sadly there is muffin man)

What a day indeed! And a short post since it is technically tomorrow, and my birthday.

I think I enjoyed the museum as much if not more than the parts within. 

Aaah! Oxford...

Today's highlights were: Sun, skies and beautiful buildings. (And dare I say, my phone)
The only downside was some immense cramping that made everything uncomfortable for most of the day. 

I woke up in my beautiful bedroom to the sun coming over the Royal Crescent across the street. After some dancing, I went for a stroll with a playlist of English musicians around Victoria park. It was a lovely sunshiney morning and my spirits were high.

 I came back to pack up again and hit the Jane Austen center. I was never a huge fan, though I watched the 2005 Pride and Prejudice a few nights ago, but this museum was captivating. They started you off with a live Museum curator giving a history of Jane Austen's family. Then they release you into a room that explains what residents of Bath were like when Jane Austen lived there. I most enjoyed (and part of the reason I went was) the costume dress up area, and they also had a calligraphy pen to play with. 

Some fun facts:

*Jane Austen's books weren't published with her name until after she died (in 1817, the first in her family, other than her father to pass, and just 41).
*She nor her sister Cassandra ever married. But her 5 brothers did, I think.
*her brother Henry named the books Persuasion and P&P, which were better than her original titles
I finished my tour by buying two books - Austen's history of England, written when she was 11, and a book of spirits she shared with her sister. Then I went up for a tea.

 Eating sandwiches full of dairy was definitely a bad idea in hindsight but I wanted the experience.

And I got to dine with Mr. Darcy.

After tea I departed Bath for Oxford passing the Didcot power plant just hours(?) Before part of it exploded. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-oxfordshire-35641766)

Every new town I visit I swear I like more than the last. I am so thankful I journeyed beyond London, and am already dreaming I could stop time and walk across this whole country. 

As I write this, chomping away at a veggie burger and chips in lieu, yet again, of the salad I was planning on, 

and I'm listening to two bearded Oxfordians discuss American pop culture due to the terrible Katy Perry/Miley Cirus station on. (That was auto corrected to millet citrus)

Yet Oxford initially was much different than I expected. I imagined Charles Darwin types walking around big buildings stroking their beards. I was met with a newer vibe than I expected. A modern town pulsing with new thought but built on the shoulders of giants.

I arrived with a couple hours to kill so I just key my feet direct me. I wound up in a very overwhelming museum of Art and Architecture, where I passed an hour comparing old coins, learning about historical material conservation, and passing mummies and Grecian statutes. Then I made my way "home"for the night, taking a long but magical detour. 

I think my favorite part of England has been making connections to places I've read about, and imagining the inventors, explorers and philosophers who created and shaped our world standing on the same streets and seeing some of the same sights. I'm looking forward to Museuming tomorrow before returning to London. 

The most beautiful city...

Bad news: my phone broke again, my period started (so now I'm extra emotional and have no appetite), my credit card got declined on the train and my airbnb host won't give me his address
Good news: my phone came through, so did my host, and I had an INCREDIBLE tour of the most beautiful city I've ever been in.

Today makes a full week of my journey and I know, despite challenges, this week is gonna be full of delightment.
I remember flipping through a travel channel where a woman was on a tour of Bath. Although she was American, she called it Baaath, sort of like the Brits do. I, however, got teased for my pronunciation... so now I'm referring to it just as Bath, with a softer a.
I've been thinking a lot about the accent here and how they pronounce vowels. I thought they really elongated their vowels, especially compared to Americans, but then I heard "p'haps" and "shre" (for Shire) and realized that they like their Oooeau sounds like we like our hard As and Es. They make "No" quite fun. Anyway, this is what runs through your head when you have no one to talk to all day.
So back to Bath. I arrived at lunch and grabbed a falafel. I felt kind of guilty at not getting something authentic (though this was real Halal falafel) but I needed to find a map and orient myself sans smartphone. And use a loo.
Once I walked the other 100 feet out of the dingy falafel place and into the town, my mood was lightened and my eyes glittered. Wow! Tan limestone surrounded by green hills... Even waking around at night, when my phone could take photos, the town dazzled.

Added to the tranquility of the town was a street performer playing classical guitar. I'll add more photos/videos when I can load them from my camera. 

Since I didn't know where to drop my bags, I carried then around for an hour while scoping  out the shops. I DID buy a shirt for a pound at a charity shop. I need to stop adding things to my bag but I can't help cheap, good quality clothes! Then I happened into a fudge shop with free samples, good jokes, and an almost 200 year old butter-free recipe. 

At 2:00 I joined the mayor's tour which was introduced by the mayor himself! (And he had a neck tattoo hidden under his collar). The tour was amazing! so much history here! First the Romans used the springs here, then in medieval times it was used, though not very appealing, due to their hygiene, or lack of. Then the queen found the water to heal her gout, and invited everyone to come, so it became a special place... And the guy who ran it insisted that everyone who comes here, once they enter the walls and sign in are equal... farmers and dukes and all. I hope I remember more from the tour but I'll post it with photos, for context. 

An old bath at the end of a walkway, right past where Jane Austen's aunt got busted for shoplifting. 

I left the tour a touch early so I could make it to the astronomy museum, held in the home of the man who discovered Uranus! I was so giddy walking down the path to the museum, but I did stop top notice that rent prices here are reasonable... so Bath is noted as a potential space for me to run away and become a schoolteacher or bartender. Or both. 

I should mention that despite a chill in the air, I escaped the drizzle in Bournemouth and actually saw some blue sky today! 

So after I got my fill of astronomical history, I hoped over to "Sally Lunn's Historic eating house and museum" to taste Sally's buns...a 300 year old recipe. I had planned to have a proper tea, but seeing as that included a lot of dairy and sugar, I opted for a veggie plate. Still good, and not too expensive, unlike some of the places for an afternoon tea in town.

I finally made it to my airbnb, only through some incredible miracles of the God Mercury, and am now typing under the huge ceilings in a spacious room in the Marlborough homes, built in the 18th century just east of where all the sewage was dumped, to protect the Royal Crescent from the stench. My tour guide called this row of Gregorian houses to be the most expensive wind block in history. And I'm staying here for £ 30. Not bad. 

I'm going to check out Jane Austen's museum and try at a tea again before training to Oxford! 

The Smartphone and the Dumb American (A love story?)

Firstly, if you have not ever watched the show Idiot Abroad...it's worth the watch for the chuckles. Watching that sealed the deal of my need to be immersed among 8 million strangers, many of whom speak in an assortment of British accents.
Now onto my rather eventful day, which has simply carried on from yesterday with a few decent snoozes on the Dreamliner.
The Dreamliner was quite cozy, especially because I had a front-row seat and could stretch out my legs, which was a trade-off for not having under-seat space, which made me less productive during the flight. Still, their touch-screen technology, incredible movie selection, and decent vegan food kept me satisfied on the 6ish hour journey. I'm already looking forward to the ride back so I can stow things under the seat in front of me, and so I can finish the last 20 minutes of The Time Travelers Wife. (I thought if I cut it off at a sweet part I could walk away and pretend it had a happy ending, but they did a good job of spoiling that possibility.).

Upon coming into the UK, I got rather giddy. Maybe it was because not enough blood was flowing to my head from the long flight, but I even teared up a little bit at the site of vast quarted countrysides, and sheep sitting among the greenest of pastures. Here I was, at last, among this city I had heard and read and thought so much about.

But maybe due to the blood, or the lack of sleep, that feeling quickly faded. My excitement to be surrounded by British accents waned almost immediately upon watching a woman chew on a word in between puffs of her cigarette. I waited half an hour in line to have my passport stamped - only my second stamp, and my first in 10 years. I hadn't prepared much for this trip, and I certainly hadn't prepared for what a passport-checker would inquire. She asked about my job, why I don't know where I'm staying beyond tonight, and how much money I brought. She was polite, but I wondered how much I should be telling her...at least until I got nervous that she might not let me in. Alas, I was passed, so I picked up my luggage, exchanged my hard-earned-money into less than I thought it was worth despite some promotion they said they gave me, and headed out to the train.
On the train, it hit me again. Despite the colorful graffiti and the quaint, British row houses, and a few sprawling stretching of garden that made me smile, a lot of the scenery reminded me of riding the Metro North from NYC. I began to wonder if it was really worth all this money and effort and confusion just to see new graffiti on a different arrangement of bricks. This must be the lack of sleep talking, cause I'm usually a glass-half-full person.

A clever artist inspires thoughtful graffiti. 

Thing did brighten up a bit when I stepped off the train at Blackfrairs Station to follow a 2 mile tour from my book, Walking London (which is more useful, but not as entertaining as London Walking, the other book I brought along.)
I started by crossing the Blackfriars Bridge then walking along the Thames. I popped into a little museum/shoppe of the Royal Societies of Painters in Watercolour and Painters/Engravers.

This was my favorite. Not a bad price, but more than in my budget. 

Then past the former Power Station.

...and past a pub that stands where once all the iron work for St Paul's cathedral was forged. I then popped out past the New Globe Theatre, where I hope to return for a show, past the Rose Theatre in which Titus Andronicus is playing in a few months, and was the site of the first time that play was ere performed (so thought).

Rose Theatre- with Hamlet photos

Then to the site of the old Globe. Fascinating history amongst the hustle and bustle of today's London. The Globe is right across from Financial Times, and around the corner is where years of Bear-baiting took place in the 1600's. I walked through a forgotten red light district with not a single red light remaining, then around the corner to The Anchor, an inn from around 1775. I had a cider, served with a glass of ice, and a plate of local mushrooms cooked in a pie crust with little onions and gravy + mashed potatoes and veggies.

Cheers, this tastes like soda :) 

Not bad, and not too expensive, though the cider was a little big for my lil alcohol appetite.

Clink Street

After the Inn I walked down Clink street and avoided some semi-expensive thrills and tours, "London Bridge, The terror," and the old Prison Museum. For whatever reason, I wasn't feeling it.

The Golden Hinde and another Photo-taker

What remains of Winchester Palace

Past the Golden Hinde ship and to the Southwark Cathedral, where I was mistaken for either a middle school choir student or their chaperone (hopefully the latter). Buried at this church are Chaucer's friend John Gower and Shakespeare's brother, and John Harvard, Harvard's founder, was born here. Amazing that so much history is enriched in one beautiful building. I didn't take the time to explore it after the choir confusion, instead making my way to Borough Market.

Southwark Cathedral

At this point, I thought I should make my way to my destination - the airbnb I'm typing this at currently. But due to the maps being positioned with North facing down, I got dreadfully confused and ended up crossing the London Bridge twice, which wasn't a problem. By the second time, though I decided not to rely on my sense of direction for the next 3 miles, nor my phone's batter (which turned out to be a wise decision) and took a train.
I bought a week long unlimited train pass for 56 pounds. Hopefully it pays off! After a small detour, I made it to my house, where I'm fighting some strange allergy and attempting to stay up past 8:00pm to cure the jet lag.

 

I'm finally planning out the next week(or so) of my trip....and I'm not going to lie, I thought about and researched ending this trip a little early...but I'll stick through. There's so much yet to be seen. I'm sure it's just the lack of sleep making me cranky. :)

In summary, here's a look at my "travel score" so far:
WINNING: Finding clean bathrooms; Affordable, local/fresh fruit parfait!
On PAR: Connecting to Free WiFi for all my belated travel planning; finding decent deals, food
FAILING: Directions, packing

Travel

On one hand, I'm proud that I navigated NYC all by myself before I had a smart phone. On the other hand, I'm relying on it heavily out here.I'm interested to see what changes this will bring upon the world.