Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts

Saturday, February 27, 2016

Reflections on traveling abroad, alone.

Now that I'm back in America, I have some final reflections from my 2 weeks away.

What I'll miss about the uk:
-The smell of toast in the morning
-Cool Humidity
-Birds of all types chirping in the morning
-Lights that turn yellow before they turn green
-Standing at bars  (rather than barstools)
-Stairs
-British accents
- more lax about things like personal hygiene
- poached eggs

Things I could take or leave:
- shops closing down after 6 (thought I guess Albuquerque does that to sine extent)
-posh culture
-dapper men
-8 million people
- transport via tube

What I'm looking forward to upon return:
- Sun
- vast open spaces
- my park
- my sweet Sid
- my full music collection (with the exception of wax tailor I only allowed myself to listen to British artists during my travels. Which turned out to be not so bad)

Thoughts on packing an urban backpack:
While I greatly enjoyed the pride I felt at being able to carry everything I needed for two weeks x4, it caused some hassles... and there are a few things I would change.
I was told twice that I was "over dressed" which I assume was in reference to my backpack. One guy told me I looked like I was ready for the arctic (nope) and another asked if I was sleeping on a bench that night. To which I replied that I didn't know yet (though I did).
At the end of my trip, my backpack weighed about 27lbs, but my shoulder bag was probably about 10. I tried to mostly acquire light clothing, though I did pick up one pretty dense rock and 3 books. I didn't even buy gifts for all the people I thought of.... due to the diminishing space. But there are some things I would do differently.
1) enough socks and underwear for the whole trip (I ended up buying both, but more for the opportunity than out of need, which there also was)
2) two jackets and two pairs of shoes proved helpful though not necessary. I could have done with less shirts. Because I bought 4 shirts and two pants my first day I about doubled my wardrobe. I would have rather that space for gifts our souvineers.
3) fixed my buckle before I left. I meant to replace the buckle oh my backpack. I ended up just taking it off and tying it, which took a bit more time but had the desired effect of causing the backpack to rest well on my hips so I could hardly feel the 30lbs shadowing me.
4) I was pleased that I happened to but a bigger shoulder bag, as it held more of the crap I acquired, for better or worse. I was also glad that I decided against getting rid of my computer. Even though it's a mini, it's at least 3lbs that I carried around all of England but  only used twice. I had considered wiping the memory and recycling it at the beginning of my trip, but when my phone started flaking out I was glad I had it as back up.

Final thoughts:
I feel that I achieved my goals of finding historical context, self reflecting, and challenging myself to do new things. I made memories and came to understandings that will affect the rest of life. However, I spent more money than I felt cause to... and I missed my beautiful community. I am looking forward to putting my energies into my community now that I have fulfilled my need for far off adventures. I will always have a sense of wanderlust that is kept in balance by my homing nature. I am fortunate to have a profession where I can achieve both, and I am looking forward to giving my all to that.

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Last day in the U.K.

I took a little break from blogging for my birthday, and because by the time I arrived to my humble bnb for the night, I was to disenchanted to type anything unbiased.


I woke up on my birthday on a 7th floor flat in the heart of London. I snoozed for an hour then went in a run like the Londoners do- weaving in and out of tourists along busy Oxford street, crossing under the marble arch into Hyde park and back. Running through all those changing obstacles was way more intense than running on trail, although the air quality and hard pavement make it less ideal.
I spent the rest of the morning with my friend Jodi, walking around town, shopping at Primark and Snog and sine strange little sex shops in SoHo. It was nice to feel a little more like a local, but maybe I let it go to my head. I left Jodi for my much anticipated room, and adorable- looking room on the south bank of the Thames, and after just one turn around, I made it.
Immediately I was disappointed. Not only did I get asked to buy a high schooler cigarettes, the room want in great condition and the sheets weren't clean.  This little sanctuary  where I was going to reflect on my last year didn't have the vibe I was hoping for, and ironically was the least appealing of all the airbnbs I stayed in.
So, as to not dwell, but enjoy the daylight remaining, I head out toward the river accompanied by Damien Rice, and watched the sun fade and the building lights come on. 


After a peaceful little dinner in a building where they used to forge iron, I made easy to the Globe for one of the best theatrical experiences of my life. 


Turns out The Winters Tale, for which I bought the last available ticket, which was two seats from the corner of the small stage, was actually in the Sam Whitiker theatre, a smaller indoor style theatre styled for Shakespeare's later plays. That means that there were only 100 or so audience members, and at times I could have reached out ans touched the actors.
The inside of the theatre had a 17th venture feel, complete with astrology paintings on the ceiling. The seats were but benches, but since I was on the front row, I could lean into the railing. The actually performance was remarkable, stylized, intimate and entertaining. I loved every moment of it, and it was worth every pence. From actors belting the fourth wall by handing off items, drinking wine our kissing the audience to several interesting dance and singing scenes, I felt fully enraptured in the play.
Sadly, it came to an end, and I decided to walk home feeling only a bit nervous about walking home alone at night. I returned to my unappealing room and shut out the world. 


This morning I packed up my bags, though not for the last time. I still have two days of journeying and much time and space to conquer. With so much ahead of me, I didn't want to do anything to complicated.... but I DID go to the museum of natural history, the science museum and the Victoria and Albert museum. 

But not before having my third avocado and toast.  :) 

I mostly explored the science museum because it cost £8 to do my bags at the natural history museum! I walked through the halls though, and to the Darwin Centre, where I enjoyed watching scientists work on a whale skeleton that had been on display for 81 years, as well as rows and rows of old collections in jars. (Unfortunately I mostly used my camera to capture these).

At the science museum, I enjoyed the clock and watch collection, and the basement collection of appliances from people's homes.

 Not only was I overwhelmed by the 5 floors of stuff and information..... there must have been at least a thousand school children screaming and running through any of the exhibits. Overhearing the delight of two girls behind me in the space room, made me think about how I once marveled museums but now am overwhelmed by them. As a child, I think museums are a great way to introduce you to single items and concepts, and start connecting them. Once you maintain your own web of understanding, they are of less use, save the areas of your interest. 

I only walked through the Victoria and Albert museum on my way to the train, but now I can say I've been there. I arrived ay the airport a few hours before my flight but I didn't want any complications.
Next stop, NYC... A much needed catch up date with my dear friend Stephanie. Then to Denver for another one with my cousin Brittney before arriving in the caring hands of my lover, and finally going home.


Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Notes from the underground

Today:
I awoke again in a sweat, but comfortable in the cute little bed I'm staying in. If only my Sid were with me. :p
Went for a run up to telegraph hill, which bright me much delight since the chapter I'm reading outlines Beaufort (father of the Beaufort wind scale)'s experience on the original optical telegraph, one of which was built right where I did 50 star jumps.
I re-packed my bags, which somehow got heavier, and walked a mile or so to breakfast at cute little vegetarian restaurant, where I evesdropped on a woman planning her move.
Feeling satiated I took the bus to Victoria station and walked to Buckingham Palace, thinking I could squeeze in some touring before heading down south. There's a lot of construction going on, and a LOT of people... not my favorite piece of London so far. 
I watched the royal guards walk around a bit with their big funny hats then walked through Green Park toward Picadilly. It's like a British 5th ave... not really my scene, I thought. Right as I was affirming my lack of money to spend or space to take anything with me, I stumbled upon a little market at St.Johns church. 

After trying to decide between a Pocket watch and a compass, I bought a brass compass sundial with the time zones on the lid. Then I bought a stamp... I'm a sucker. 

I walked around Piccadilly circus, taking a longer route than I intended back to the train. And passing through a very rich area...

 £7,000 for a flat, anyone?  I'm thankful for all the maps posted along the roads for keeping me on track. 

Caught a train to Shorham-by-Sea to meetup with two lovely people I worked with in 2011! We drank tea and caught up and ate a delicious homemade curry (I hadn't meet my curry fix yet) then went to town to see Youth, a curious and long movie with to many producers.
Now I sit on a sweet pull out sofa reflecting on my day but feeling wide awake somehow. My brain still thinks I'm in America I guess.

Total miles this morning: roughly 4
Total spent: $26 on souvineers, £ 16 on food

Despite the chill, everything is starting to bloom. It's promising to be a beautiful time to visit. 

Monday, February 15, 2016

The Smartphone and the Dumb American (A love story?)

Firstly, if you have not ever watched the show Idiot Abroad...it's worth the watch for the chuckles. Watching that sealed the deal of my need to be immersed among 8 million strangers, many of whom speak in an assortment of British accents.
Now onto my rather eventful day, which has simply carried on from yesterday with a few decent snoozes on the Dreamliner.
The Dreamliner was quite cozy, especially because I had a front-row seat and could stretch out my legs, which was a trade-off for not having under-seat space, which made me less productive during the flight. Still, their touch-screen technology, incredible movie selection, and decent vegan food kept me satisfied on the 6ish hour journey. I'm already looking forward to the ride back so I can stow things under the seat in front of me, and so I can finish the last 20 minutes of The Time Travelers Wife. (I thought if I cut it off at a sweet part I could walk away and pretend it had a happy ending, but they did a good job of spoiling that possibility.).

Upon coming into the UK, I got rather giddy. Maybe it was because not enough blood was flowing to my head from the long flight, but I even teared up a little bit at the site of vast quarted countrysides, and sheep sitting among the greenest of pastures. Here I was, at last, among this city I had heard and read and thought so much about.

But maybe due to the blood, or the lack of sleep, that feeling quickly faded. My excitement to be surrounded by British accents waned almost immediately upon watching a woman chew on a word in between puffs of her cigarette. I waited half an hour in line to have my passport stamped - only my second stamp, and my first in 10 years. I hadn't prepared much for this trip, and I certainly hadn't prepared for what a passport-checker would inquire. She asked about my job, why I don't know where I'm staying beyond tonight, and how much money I brought. She was polite, but I wondered how much I should be telling her...at least until I got nervous that she might not let me in. Alas, I was passed, so I picked up my luggage, exchanged my hard-earned-money into less than I thought it was worth despite some promotion they said they gave me, and headed out to the train.
On the train, it hit me again. Despite the colorful graffiti and the quaint, British row houses, and a few sprawling stretching of garden that made me smile, a lot of the scenery reminded me of riding the Metro North from NYC. I began to wonder if it was really worth all this money and effort and confusion just to see new graffiti on a different arrangement of bricks. This must be the lack of sleep talking, cause I'm usually a glass-half-full person.
A clever artist inspires thoughtful graffiti. 






Thing did brighten up a bit when I stepped off the train at Blackfrairs Station to follow a 2 mile tour from my book, Walking London (which is more useful, but not as entertaining as London Walking, the other book I brought along.)
I started by crossing the Blackfriars Bridge then walking along the Thames. I popped into a little museum/shoppe of the Royal Societies of Painters in Watercolour and Painters/Engravers.

This was my favorite. Not a bad price, but more than in my budget. 
Then past the former Power Station.

...and past a pub that stands where once all the iron work for St Paul's cathedral was forged. I then popped out past the New Globe Theatre, where I hope to return for a show, past the Rose Theatre in which Titus Andronicus is playing in a few months, and was the site of the first time that play was ere performed (so thought).

Rose Theatre- with Hamlet photos

Then to the site of the old Globe. Fascinating history amongst the hustle and bustle of today's London. The Globe is right across from Financial Times, and around the corner is where years of Bear-baiting took place in the 1600's. I walked through a forgotten red light district with not a single red light remaining, then around the corner to The Anchor, an inn from around 1775. I had a cider, served with a glass of ice, and a plate of local mushrooms cooked in a pie crust with little onions and gravy + mashed potatoes and veggies.
Cheers, this tastes like soda :) 

Not bad, and not too expensive, though the cider was a little big for my lil alcohol appetite.

Clink Street

After the Inn I walked down Clink street and avoided some semi-expensive thrills and tours, "London Bridge, The terror," and the old Prison Museum. For whatever reason, I wasn't feeling it.
The Golden Hinde and another Photo-taker

What remains of Winchester Palace
Past the Golden Hinde ship and to the Southwark Cathedral, where I was mistaken for either a middle school choir student or their chaperone (hopefully the latter). Buried at this church are Chaucer's friend John Gower and Shakespeare's brother, and John Harvard, Harvard's founder, was born here. Amazing that so much history is enriched in one beautiful building. I didn't take the time to explore it after the choir confusion, instead making my way to Borough Market.
Southwark Cathedral
At this point, I thought I should make my way to my destination - the airbnb I'm typing this at currently. But due to the maps being positioned with North facing down, I got dreadfully confused and ended up crossing the London Bridge twice, which wasn't a problem. By the second time, though I decided not to rely on my sense of direction for the next 3 miles, nor my phone's batter (which turned out to be a wise decision) and took a train.
I bought a week long unlimited train pass for 56 pounds. Hopefully it pays off! After a small detour, I made it to my house, where I'm fighting some strange allergy and attempting to stay up past 8:00pm to cure the jet lag.

 


I'm finally planning out the next week(or so) of my trip....and I'm not going to lie, I thought about and researched ending this trip a little early...but I'll stick through. There's so much yet to be seen. I'm sure it's just the lack of sleep making me cranky. :)



In summary, here's a look at my "travel score" so far:
WINNING: Finding clean bathrooms; Affordable, local/fresh fruit parfait!
On PAR: Connecting to Free WiFi for all my belated travel planning; finding decent deals, food
FAILING: Directions, packing

Travel
On one hand, I'm proud that I navigated NYC all by myself before I had a smart phone. On the other hand, I'm relying on it heavily out here.I'm interested to see what changes this will bring upon the world.